The Smell of Summer

I just tried an amazing scent from the CB I Hate Perfume line. It's called At The Beach 1966, and it does the trick of being a perfect summertime fragrance. It smells true to it's name. The first thing I think of is the original Coppertone sunscreen in the pink bottle. It is definitely a floral scent first and foremost, but I do detect a hint of wet sand and saltiness underneath the Coppertone. It makes me think of childhood days spent at St Simons Island, Georgia. We would play in the salty waves all day long until our skin began to burn, then run back to our towels to reapply sun lotion. At the end of the day when I collapsed into a happy exhaustion, this is the essence that still clung to my skin and hair.

I know I have previously mentioned Jovan Island Gardenia, but it is worth another accolade for being one of the best summer perfumes as well. I buy a bottle every year. Don't waste your money on the Marc Jacobs or Chanel if you are looking for an exotic white floral true gardenia potion. Island Gardenia is the real deal at the low price of $10. Used with a light hand, this smells like heaven. It makes me think of classy ladies of the 1940s with flowers pinned in their hair. At times it also remind me of the expensive shampoos and styling products used in my uncle's salon. If you love the smell of gardenia as much as I do, your search stops here.

The last perfect summer scent I want to talk about is Bonne Bell Skin Musk. Do not be fooled by the silly name and even cheesier packaging! This is not your typical loud brash musk. It is very subtle, smelling of a powdered lavender when first applied and then drying down to a light sandalwood creaminess. It lasts all day long and is delicate enough to be worn with other perfumes. I like to layer this with the gardenia sometimes for added allure. When worn alone it smells like you have just emerged from a lovely bath.

Being Selfish

What an unfair world. Why are all the best perfumes made for men? Why do the loveliest potions become discontinued? No one said life should be fair, but it does add a sadness to the wearing of these fragrances. To grab a sample or a decant of that rare bird, that eau de Forever No More. That is how it feels to wear Chanel Egoiste for men. I know vanilla and sandalwood are notes and I pick up on those, but I also get the memory of exotic woods, tobacco, honey and old leather, like the bindings on antique books.

This smells drop dead sexy. It smells expensive. This would be a cologne for the Ideal Bachelor. He would be a provacative and confident man, secure in his sexuality and he would smell like this. This is the guy who has a hip apartment and listens to lo-fi jazz. He has some political beliefs that scare you a bit, and he acts older than his age.

There was a famous commercial for this cologne when it appeared in 1990 that showed women screaming out of hotel windows, opening and slamming the windows, shouting "Egoiste! Egoiste! Egoiste!" It was a very weird commercial, but you got the idea. All of these ladies had been wronged by the unseen man. "Egoiste", by the way, loosely translates to "selfish". Some guy had been selfish and led these women into fits of window slamming rage. I guess this is a cologne to be worn by selfish drop dead sexy heartbreakers then.

Two thumbs up on Egoiste, which is marvelous and of course, discontinued. Do not be fooled into buying the new Chanel, Egoiste Platinum, as it smells nothing like the poison I'm telling you about. You can still buy original Egoiste online. But don't tell your man about it or he will soon have all the ladies following after him. That's just extra work for you.

Orange You Glad I Tried This?

It's not very often that I even try a men's cologne on myself. I don't fancy smelling like a guy. However, I have found some really great unisex fragrances by taking this risk. Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte is one of them. I need a full bottle of this immediately. Maybe my boyfriend and I can share it! A bit embarrassing, but I tried this because in the Gossip Girl book series (yes, I know that it's for the kids but I am a huge fan) the character of Blair Waldorf is described wearing this scent. It did not disappoint me and I can't stop sniffing my arm.

Notes: peppermint, lemon, sweet orange, mandarin, rose, neroli, jasmine, papaya, mango, patchouli, amber, musk and oakmoss.

This is a very clean scent, but not too soapy or watered down in any way. It is the perfect smell for a broiling and muggy summer day. Perfectly named, I feel as though I am standing in a Floridian grove of orange trees, the fruit just beginning to ripen in the sun. The neroli and jasmine heighten the effect of the oranges to make it a bit headier, and the bit of mint keeps everything outdoorsy feeling. On me the drydown is a strong patchouli/oakmoss combination, reminding me that this is in fact, a men's cologne, but never ruining my enjoyment of it.

I can see keeping a big bottle of Eau d'Orange Verte in the fridge every summer. I could splash it on after a long bike ride or day at the lake. Wearing this is possibly more refreshing than a Tanqueray.

Gothic Lolita

LOLITA LEMPICKA

Notes: anise seed, licorice, violet, ivy, cherries, iris, tonka bean, almod, vanilla, heliotrope, musk, vetiver

Today I tried out the much talked about Lolita Lempicka perfume, the original in her line. This is a love it or hate it scent, and on the first spray I thought "Holy licorice! Nasty." I cannot stand licorice, the smell makes me feel nauseous. Thankfully, the anise / licorice note began to dry down and fade a bit, and the most lovely notes of violet, ivy and almond emerged as the winners for most of the wear. At the end of the day I smelled faintly of vanilla tobacco.

Something about the smell of this perfume kept making me think of the movie Moulin Rouge, of the bohemians like Toulouse Lautrec with their dusty props and bottle of absinthe. Other times however, I would get a whiff and be reminded of the movie Interview With a Vampire, with the Old South cemeteries and ancient rituals cloaked in mystery. Another metaphor? If the gothic illustrator Edward Gorey were to have a scent, this would be it. There is something so dark and sad about Lolita Lempicka. Feminine, but not in a friendly girl next door or even a come hither seductress way. Last metaphor I promise, but I want to make sure you really get the idea. The "lost Lenore" that Edgar Alan Poe grieves in his poem "The Raven" probably wore this stuff.

My parting thought on LL is that I may one day purchase a bottle. It is fantastically evocative and I may need a good goth scent one day...you never know. The bottle itself is breathtakingly gorgeous. Right now however, I am going to focus on other fragrances and perhaps I will return to this when it isn't quite so popular and recognizable.

Looking Into the Iris

PRADA INFUSION d"IRIS

Notes: mandarin, orange blossom, iris, incense, benzoin, cedar.

Infusion d'Iris is a clean, powdery floral. The iris note is really nice, a soft dry woody iris. I didn't even think that irises had a scent until I smelled this and then my memories kicked in. There is a sharp note in the background that reminds me of pepper. The benzoin perhaps? Not sure. It brings back feelings of standing in my mother's flower garden after the rain, running through clean laundry on the line, and Johnson's baby powder.

This would be a superb fragrance for someone who worked at a job that brought them into close contact with others. It is so light and subtle, people won't think you are wearing perfume, they'll just think you smell great. I get a slight old-lady feeling from it, but let me explain that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Some old ladies smell lovely, and this is one of them. Infusion d'Iris is the classy old lady who still curls her hair and polishes her nails. She may be from another era, but her femininity is timeless.

Overall, a nice fragrance but just not for me. I had to bathe in this in order to smell enough to write this review. Maybe this would be better on me if I layered it over a light musk oil to give it more depth. I'm such a tart. I always want my perfumes to speak up.

Tricky Treats

I feel like the best perfumes are a little bit difficult. They have a weird note somewhere in their composition that not everyone can wear. Who wants to smell just like the next girl anyway? Not me. We all want to be unique. The following fragrances, if worn by the right person, will give you just that.

Mitsouko by Guerlain is an incredibly hard scent to wear. When I wear it I smell oakmoss, vetiver, peach and neroli. It's very woody and strange. It conjures up images of dusty attics filled with antique furniture and clothes. It also reminds me of rainy days in the woods, stepping on muddy leaves and fallen trees. A true chypre perfume. Wear this when you want to imagine yourself as a chic mysterious woman in Paris during the last golden days before World War II.

Ultraviolet by Paco Rabanne is a favorite of mine because it smells quite unlike any perfume I've ever sampled. It has that hard to define note in it that turns Play Doh-esque on many but smells exquisite on others. I read that pimiento is a top note in this so that could be what I'm smelling. However, most of the fragrance comes from the Japanese osmanthus flower. I smell apricot and grape bubble gum when I first spray it, but then it dries down into a remarkable aroma. Like violets, vanilla, and bergamot with black pepper. It is impossible to accurately describe Ultraviolet. Both funky and mysterious. The images this brings up for me are days from my childhood spent playing with a new doll.

Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood is possibly the most sexual perfume I've ever encountered. I had a sample once and was afraid to wear it outside the house for fear of sending the wrong message. It smells like a tumble in the sheets. A little drop goes a long way here. Powdered roses, vanilla pipe tobacco and an unmistakable sweat note are all present. Put this on when you feel 50% Victorian lady, 50% Wild West whore. It's terrific, but difficult.

The entire Demeter line falls into the "hard to wear, hard to love, might just be perfect" category. With names like Funeral Home, Laundromat, Earthworm, Salt Air, Riding Crop, Holy Water, Woodsmoke....you are certain to find something out of the ordinary. They really smell true to their names. Some of these concoctions might be better as a room spray than a scent to wear on your skin, but to each his own. Someday I may want to BE a gin and tonic and when that happens, Demeter has me covered.

Notes I LOVE

* Gardenia

* Tuberose

* Violet

* Lily of the valley

* Rose

* Lilac

* Honeysuckle

* Osmanthus

* Neroli

* Apple

* Lemon

* Lychee

* Honey

* Almond

* Coconut

* Coffee

* Chocolate

* Patchouli

* Vetiver

* Sandalwood

* Cocobolo wood

* Ambergris

It Wasn't Meant to Be

There are perfectly marvelous fragrances that don't work for me. Every person's body chemistry is so different, as well as our olfactory sensibilities. Sometimes I have purchased a scent hoping so badly that it would be perfect for me. The bottle was pleasing to the eye, the name was intriguing, or the first few sniffs made me fall instantly in love.  I would rush home elated about my new acquisition, only to find my infatuation dissolving in the following weeks and months. 

So it is with lovers. The guy you fall madly in lust for one night turns out to be married. The friend of a friend who everyone said would be "so perfect for you" isn't.  The beautiful disaster of a man who seemed so full of love one moment is gone the next.  Like men, perfumes have distinct personalities and will react accordingly with ours.  

One autumn I had bought a bottle of Armani mania, the original incarnation with the black cap. I thought it smelled contemporary and elegant, which is what I was striving so hard to pass for at the time ( I was 21).  The bergamot and clove notes pulled me in and wrapped me up like a cashmere sweater.  While I was donning this I met a rakish young "toy revolutionary" who charmed me for some reason (like I said, I was 21).  After a couple months of pseudo relationship, the heavy incense and bourbon notes of mania began to wear on me. I felt dizzy and sick from the drunk feeling that enveloped me wearing it.  I don't blame the perfume, it just wasn't meant to be. 

A few years later a gentleman swept me off my feet with a whirlwind courtship and spontaneous marriage proposal.  Around this time I got a sample of Kenzo's L'Eau par Kenzo. It smelled of mint, melon, cucumber and clover. Maybe just a touch of lily. Breathtaking crisp and clean. It smelled like summer dreams and hope in a bottle. It would not last on my skin. I would apply it and half an hour later it would vanish.  Much like the romantic gentlemen...after six months of living with him I had changed my mind. The love would not last on my heart. 

The last great affair perfume that comes to mind is the new version of Nina by Nina Ricci. A few years after the engagement was called off, I was shopping with my crush, a tall blond with catalog model good looks. My eye fell upon this gorgeous red glass bottle shaped like an apple with silver leaves. It smelled divinely of caramel apples, peonies and vanilla bean. The clincher was that when I put a little on, my crush couldn't stop himself from becoming my boyfriend.  I really enjoyed wearing Nina for a few months, but after awhile the caramel began to seem sickly sweet. I started getting headaches from it. More importantly, it was all I could smell anymore. Any complexity of the scent was long gone and it had become dull.  Boring juice in a pretty bottle, just like Catalog Model Dude. 

Happiness at the Drugstore

My love affair with perfume began at a young age. My earliest recollections of the stuff are of being a preschooler playing with my mother's miniature bottles of L'Air du Temps and 4711. I accidentally spilled some on the wood dressing table. Neroli, jasmine, rose and sandalwood oils, among others, soaked down into that antique wood. Every day after that the entire room had a hint of those classic colognes.

Alas, I was only a poor little girl. No one was gifting me with exquisite concoctions from the famous French parfumeries. It would be years before I would even make my first designer department store purchase. For the time being, it was the dime store find. Oh, and the finds I made! Of course there were the misses- perfumes that were too alcoholic, too fruity, too old lady. That was a risk I took in order to find the gems. Here are a few goodies I found along the way:

* Jovan Island Gardenia

* Chloe Narcisse

* Bonne Bell Skin Musk

* Burt's Bees Apricot Oil

* Body Fantasies spritzers (raspberry and white musk)

* The Healing Garden (gingerlily and green tea)

* Revlon Charlie (Red, White and Oriental if you can find it)

* Revlon Electric Youth

* Coty exclamation and exclamation blush

* Coty Sand & Sable

* Coty Muguet de Bois

* Coty L'Effleur

* Coty Tribe

* Coty Love's Baby Soft

* Coty Love's Fresh Lemon

* Cover Girl Navy

The Jovan Island Gardenia is hands down the BEST gardenia perfume I have found in many years of searching. It is a fresh gardenia with just a whisper of a warm nuttiness in the background. A perfect summer scent, I will wear this every year.

Chloe Narcisse is what I wore to my junior prom and to me it says: Young girl trying to step into the shoes of a sophisticated woman in the 90s. This is probably just me projecting, but I think it is a very feminine smell but with an edge of glam danger.

Charlie Oriental was introduced to me by my sister, who sprayed herself quite liberally with this every day when she was in 8th grade. It was a great scent though, and you can still find it online.

Navy, the only perfume that Cover Girl ever made reminds me of the early 90s. It smells classy, I loved the ad campaign featuring happy models in crisp white shirts, and I adore that coriander note that gives Navy it's signature spiciness.

Welcome

Welcome to Essences & Reveries, a new perfume blog.

I do not claim to be any sort of fragrance expert or conaisseur of perfume houses. Nor do I pretend that I can sniff a vial and identify the top, heart, and base notes of any scent.  I am not here to tell you about the latest and greatest edition on the market.  I am a person of modest income with an appreciation for perfume. I love how an aroma is closely tied in with our memory. A whiff of something wonderful in the air can instantly transport you to another era of your life. You can see the clothes you wore, hear the music and remember the laughter and tears.  I also love how the right perfume can make a woman into the person she most wants to be at that time.  There are fragrances to make you feel classy or sexy or innocent or fun or even dark.  Some women love finding one perfect scent and making it theirs. Others love to have a fragrance library to suit their every mood.

I would like for this page to be a fun place for perfume fans to share their stories and review their favorites.  I will be posting regular musings and reviews as well, please comment.