When Life Hands You Lemons

Would you believe me if I told you that lemon doesn't have to conjur up images of cleaning products? What about images of lemonade? Lemon meringue pie? A twist of lemon peel in a martini? A grove of lemon trees along the bank of the Mediterranean? Quality lemon note in perfume is so uplifting and zesty, it's actually one of my favorites. So much that 10% of my current collection is fragrances which highlight lemon as a main player. Here is my roundup of top 10 lemon-centric scents that you should not miss.

Maurer & Wirtz 4711 Original Cologne

The textbook cologne, possibly the great grandfather of all lemon based colognes. Originally created in 1792, it's the oldest running formulation I've tried. I've been familiar with 4711 since I was a child, my earliest sense memories are infused with the strong bergamot-citrus oil. It is not long lasting, rather it's meant to be used as a pick me up on a hot day or an after bath splash, tingly, refreshing and brief. Many people keep 4711 in their medicine cabinets to help relieve headaches, nausea, sunburn... you name it. 
 
Acqua di Parma Colonia
  
Quite possibly my favorite lemon, this wears like a luxurious piece of silk. Originally created during the first World War, it was meant to perfume men's handkerchiefs. It has that simple classic barbershop appeal, quality lemon perfectly blended with a touch of bitter herbs. Why I have only sampled and never owned a bottle is due to the fact that it's justifiably expensive.
 
Eau de Rochas

A cologne in the 1970s style, the lemon shares the spotlight equally with oakmoss, lime and basil. When I first sprayed this, I was a bit put off. It just doesn't smell anything like the modern citruses. The oakmoss places it squarely in the vintage category. Notes of coriander and patchouli lie underneath, contributing an almost dirty animalic sweat quality to an otherwise bright and uplifting potion. This should not discourage anyone from trying it. If you can't find it anywhere, O de Lancome is still widely available and smells a lot like Eau de Rochas. Try either and see what you think of a "dirty" citrus. 
  
Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien 

Another incredibly hyped scent that I initially had lukewarm feelings toward. When first applied, I got a serious dose of furniture polish, which made me feel like I had made a mistake and why in the world was everyone raving about this one? The more I learn about perfume testing, the more I learn to pretty much ignore the first 5-10 minutes after spraying. The alcohol needs to burn off a bit and the various accords need to sort themselves out and find their place. It's the olfactory equivalent of the noise an orchestra makes warming up just before the conductor takes the stage. It just sounds like a cacophony of random noise but give it a few minutes and you will experience a beautiful symphony. When I give Eau d'Hadrien a few minutes to dry and adjust itself, the lemon stops yelling and speaks in a normal indoor voice. This allows the piney outdoorsy cypress accord to make itself heard. Now it's no longer furniture polish but a real lemon tree on the banks of a river, surrounded by balsamic green trees and honey sweet wildflowers. 

L'Artisan L'eau de L'Artisan

I really really enjoy this one. It mixes lemon balm with mint and basil and marjoram and tea... it absolutely reminds me of my mother's herb garden at my childhood home. It's bright and zesty while at the same time conjuring up images of finding a spot of cool shade on the hottest summer day. If I ever decide to drop beaucoup dollars on a niche citrus aromatic, this one would certainly be a top contender. I wish everywhere I went in the summer smelled as intoxicatingly herbal as this.
 
Calvin Klein cKone

What to say about cKone that I haven't already? It's super nostalgic for me. When I was fifteen, Calvin Klein introduced cKone and those ads really caught my attention. It was the era of grunge, and this was perfectly encapsulated by dual page black and white advertisements featuring skinny models dressed in flannels and white undershirts wearing insouciant facial expressions as they leaned against one another in a way that seemed to hint at free love, or at least polyamory. Such independence! Such alternative styling! This appealed to my suburban living, squeaky clean self. Still a virgin but wishing I wasn't, I decided this was the year I would finally get a boyfriend. And if I had to buy Doc Marten boots or cKone or the entire delia's catalog to do so, then so be it. Problem was, I didn't have the budget for that and neither did my parents. So I was forced to wear JC Penney's clothes and wish I knew anything about eyeliner. I bought this for my son as his first cologne and it's really perfect for a young person. A nice green citrus that unfolds to a powdery light floral musk. 
 
Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl

Tommy Girl is really nice and I don't care who hears me say that. I am not embarrassed to like this, even if Tommy Hilfiger is a dorky overrated brand in general. This is a very safe perfume, you really aren't going to offend anyone with it. I like that the fizzy lemonade/ green tea accord is paired with country florals like honeysuckle and apple blossom. How 'girl next door' is that? There's even a hint of clover or mint.. something that gives it that straight off the farm, aw shucks appeal.


Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

 Everyone has smelled this, it's the new king of modern bestselling lemon fragrances. If you've never smelled Light Blue then you must live under a rock. There is just as much cedar in this as there is lemon, giving it real texture. It's a "light" summer scent with big sillage that lasts and lasts and lasts. It has the nice effect of kicking up the volume when you start to sweat. It's sparkling, always reminds me of a can of 7Up. This was to the early 2000s what cKone was to the 90s... everywhere and everyone wore it. Very refreshing and people will ask what you're wearing mostly because they recognize it. 


Adrienne Vittadini Capri   

This is very Italian style. A creamy lemon oil powdered with iris and deepened with oak moss. I've sampled it twice in the last decade and both times made a huge impression. There is something slightly salty in this, like a fruity drink with rock salt on the rim. Like sailing on the open sea and the sun is shining but the breeze is chilly and it's whipping your clean wet hair into your face. Oh and you're a gorgeous Italian model.

  Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Forte

How many people have I recommended this too now? I've lost count. I mean, sure I do have a crush on Francis Kurkdjian (look him up! you will too!) but this fragrance is so quality. I heard a reviewer call this "what the towels in heaven smell like" and that's accurate. This is actually a jasmine (or possibly lily of the valley?) perfume upfront, with the lemon note peeking in and out of the bouquet. So dewy. It makes me think of getting out of the shower and feeling the summer breeze through the window as you dress. This is a high end fragrance, the price is out of most people's range but if you get lucky enough to have it, you will know heaven. A soapy and sweet musk that more hints at lemon than actually being a lemon.

My Name Is My Credit Card

Another roundup of celebrity scents. As long as they keep making celebrities, they will keep making celebrity perfumes. Many are wholly forgettable but others are definitely worth buying a bottle.
I know some younger readers might not find these celebrities to be current or relevant, but never the less, these celebs are from my young adulthood and it's my blog. To be quite honest, I have tried offerings from Justin Bieber, Taylor Swift, Katy Perry and Nicki Minaj (more current and more relevant to millennials) but I was unimpressed with any of it. So much fruit salad and grenadine syrup! Aren't you lucky you have someone like me to test everything for you and give you the scoop? Here are a few that warrant a sniff and there's not a single fruit punch in this punch.


Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely

I assume most of you are familiar with SJP Lovely by now, it's been out for well over a decade and is widely available. But if you are not, I will fill you in. Lovely is, in my opinion, the perfect musk. It's a blend of the powdery animalic musk notes, a bracing crisp herbal note from lavender, and a sweet fresh pink flowers note that keeps things very feminine and romantic. This is just so fresh and so clean. I also heard this has apple martini accord in it...I wouldn't be able to tell you that's what I'm smelling here but there is an ever-so-slightly fruit and booziness underneath all the wood and leaves. I hate to use the word "shampoo" so often when writing about perfume but shampoo has a freshness while still being a chemical....so I think it works when describing a smell. You don't even have to know *which* shampoo, because it's already been rinsed out, metaphorically, and you are left with wet clean hair and scalp. Lovely makes a great everyday, any place, "go-to" scent, especially for people who find themselves in an environment that frowns upon strong perfumes. If people smell this, they'll assume it's a blend of your soap, your shampoo, your dryer sheets and the natural musk that emanates from your skin. I love Lovely and can't wait to have another bottle in my collection. I've gone through three already, it's so useful. 


Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights 

You better not ask who Jessica Simpson is. Ok, fine she was a pop star back when I was young. Then she married another pop star and they had a reality show. Then they got divorced and I think she married a football player and started popping out kids and peddling a home decor line? Maybe? I might be wrong about some of that... doesn't matter, let's talk about her perfume line, starting with Fancy Nights because it's the best. This one is a warm spicy chypre reminiscent of vintage perfumes. For patchouli lovers only, because the patch in this is not messing around. Fancy Nights conjurs up images of mystery and antiquity... old libraries or Egyptian tombs. Every now and then the smoky-sweet vanilla rises through the herbal layers and reminds me of vintage Shalimar (yes!). The bottle makes me think of some object lifted from the Emerald City in Wizard of Oz. I love this style from a celebrity, it's quite risk taking and such a departure from the rest of Jessica's fragrance line, which follows the more mainstream trend of sweetness. (Fancy Love is practically a dupe of Burberry Woman) I did enjoy Jessica Simpson Signature, which was a light refreshing vanilla. But if you're going to try her line, be bold and give Fancy Nights a shot for some real old school glamour. It's been compared to the expensive Prada Amber by people with better noses than me. 
 

Adam Levine for Women

I believe that Adam Levine would have a real shot with me if only he'd try a little harder, but that is beside the point today, which is perfume. I bought this solely based on the number of times it's name came up as a suggestion for a budget sandalwood. This is almost a skin scent on me, I don't think it's possible to over apply. It just sinks right in and doesn't radiate out, but it's still enough to let me enjoy it. I tend to wear this when I'm lounging around my home, it has a lazy weekend feel. Mostly sandalwood, sweetened with vanilla and lightly sprinkled with saffron. I'm not too familiar with the scent of marigold but it must be that little something extra, that slightly sharp green I notice only when I first apply. This is sexy but not in an "out-to-seduce" way. It's more sexy in the manner of snuggling on the couch with a long time lover. This also makes a nice base layer all over with a few drops of Samsara on the pulse points. I think this one would work well in any season and it's affordable enough to use liberally. Again, a nice break from all the fruit laden celeb scents. Adam Levine also makes a "For Men" which is supposedly a fresh citrus, but I have not tried that one. I might need that aforementioned lover first.. put it on his skin and see if he turns into Adam Levine.
 

Elizabeth and James Nirvana White 

This was a real surprise and treat for me! Unfamiliar with the Elizabeth and James clothing line, I researched it only to find that it's the creation of sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. Yes, the Full House Olsen twins are now big shot fashion designers. Nirvana White was my introduction to their perfume line and what a beautiful one it was. I love the smell of peony, it's a lot like rose but even fresher and airier. Sort of a cross between roses, lilies and carnations... that's the power of a peony. Yes, those flowers that use ants to help their blossoms open and can be smelled across the yard. Nirvana White is like the name suggests... purity, lightness, freshness. A silky musk lingers in the drydown a few hours past the florals fading. I also got the chance to sample Nirvana Amethyst, which was totally different but equally quality, a sweet moist tobacco with a hint of white flowers underpinning it like a slip. Wonderful! I almost bought a bottle but restrained myself because I need to pare down my current collection a bit first. I will definitely be trying all of this line. Good job, Mary-Kate and Ashley!


Jennifer Aniston J 

This summer I discovered the existence of Jennifer Aniston perfumes and have been trying them all.(Sadly I have only able to get the body spray version of Beachscape, I think it may be discontinued) But so far "J" is my favorite one. It's hard to describe... definitely has that salty aquatic ocean air element, but also mixed with a creamy floral, I believe it's magnolia I smell...like a beautiful white flowering tree. There is a touch (just a hint!) of lotion-esque vanilla sweetening the whole thing up. J is the perfect balance of cool aquatic, salty, sweet and floral. As if those 4 elements created a perfect square. I adore the gradient turquoise glass bottle, so tranquil and pretty. This would make such a nice vacation perfume, it's quite beachy. I know I will be repurchasing. Lesson: Always give celebrity scents a whirl because you just never know, sometimes they are fabulous.

Happiness At The Drugstore, Vol. 2

One of my first posts on Essences & Reveries was about the cheap goodies I found at the drugstore when I was young and had almost no money to my name. In the nine years (!!!) since that post, I have encountered quite a few more cheapie favorites. Remember, just because something is inexpensive does not mean that it will smell cheap. I encourage you to stop by your local Walgreens, CVS, Whole Foods, etc. and have a look at what can be found for under $20.

Revlon Ciara

There is nothing quite like Ciara. A 1970s favorite, it's still available in drugstores today and it's a surprisingly smoky-sweet oriental. You will be noticed if you wear Ciara, it is not for the shy. Something about this one brought back a memory to me of being a child in the early 80s and maybe an older cousin or aunt was wearing this. I see tooled leather purses, macrame belts and feathered hair as one of them leans in close to me. There is a very distinct sweetness of synthetic raspberry and amber, but also a grownup smokiness from incense and resins.
I will never forget later in life wearing a spritz of Ciara to an ill fated job interview. "You may not wear perfumes if you work here!" the joyless interviewer told me. But I believe Ciara stirred up a memory for her as well. She became very testy and went off on a tangent asking if I was an honest person and would I tell my friend if her husband was cheating. I cut that interview short but Ciara is memorable for sure!


Dana Tabu

Widely available and cheap as chips, people tend to overlook Tabu. It tends to sit on the bottom shelf with other classics, not attracting attention to itself but still being regularly purchased by it's loyal followers and curious perfumistas. This perfume, which has been around since the 1930s, holds a special place in my heart. My mother wore a number of different perfumes when I was a child, but the one she wore most often, that I will always associate as "the Mom smell" is Tabu. It unfolds over many hours, in many layers of warmth... amber, clove studded oranges, root beer spiked with Southern Comfort.... but mostly it's mom. It's the smell of poking around in her top dresser drawer, it's the smell of her sweater when you sat close to her, it's the smell of someone who will take care of me, it is the smell of someone who will punish me. It's mom all the way and when I once tried a sample of this on my own skin, it felt weird. Like I was wearing someone else's pantyhose.

Jovan White Musk

A clean, simple white musk and an unbeatable price. Can be compared to the scent of high end musks. This is a great perfume for people who are shy about wearing a perfume at all. The effect is like wearing a soft knit cashmere sweater and speaking in a gentle tone. Very cuddly and soothing, like a hug from a dear friend. Soapy but in an earthy bohemian sort of way, not crisp but creamy. This does not project but lays close to your skin, to be enjoyed only by those you allow in close enough.


Bijan

An 80s oriental that is soft enough to not smell like "an 80s oriental". A woman who I used to babysit for wore this on her date nights and it was perfect for her, a flower child turned career woman. Her house was decorated in handcrafted art from around the world, her family ate organic foods and her demeanor was as sweet as the honey note in this perfume. I was surprised to find that Bijan was relatively inexpensive and available at drugstores. It's a balmy summer afternoon sitting in a field of warm wildflowers, heavy with pollen. The wind blows and on the breeze you catch a waft of nag champa incense burning somewhere down the road.


Pacifica French Lilac 

The Pacifica line can be found at all Whole Foods grocery stores. They are natural ingredients, which is perfect if you're around someone who is sensitive to aromachemicals. Pacifica doesn't test on animals, which is always a bonus when a company's products are ethically sourced. French Lilac was my introduction to the line, and it is a VERY REALISTIC lilac. It's like sticking your face into a bush of white lilacs in early May. When first sprayed, it's a bit heavy but give it an hour or two and it dries into something light and breezy. While it's very much lilac-centered, I detect other florals like heliotrope and magnolia giving it even more green creaminess. And even though it's listed nowhere in the notes, I keep feeling a hint of patchouli leaves underneath it all. I'll have to try this layered with vintage White Shoulders and see how they play together. I have tried a few other scents from Pacifica and was very pleased. I recommend the Spanish Amber, Island Vanilla and Hawaiian Ruby Guava as well.