Tuesday, July 16, 2019

A Rose By Many Other Names, Volume 4


 A fourth installment of rose-centric fragrance reviews. Why do I love rose scents so much and review them every year? Because I believe roses to be magical, the stuff of fairytales. The ultimate in feminine beauty. I associate roses with being loved. Whether it be a fresh sweet innocent pink rose or a dark thorny scarlet rose, I love them all. Throughout history, roses have been prized and considered sacred. I never get tired of them, I really don't. I live in a city apartment with no outdoor space in which to grow my own rose bushes, so wearing rose perfumes gets me that wonderful scent fix I crave. I realize I have been extremely lax once again in updating this blog (thanks depression!) so in the interest of getting this published sooner rather than later, I will keep the reviews short and sweet. Here are 8 rose perfumes I wore this summer: 

Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection by ETAT LIBRE D'ORANGE

Very fresh, I can smell a lot of geranium here. If you're looking for a realistic geranium scent you should definitely check this one. By the way, I loved actress Rossy de Palma in the Almodovar film "Women On the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown". She has an incredibly unique look. I don't smell the supposed "blood accord" in this which is fine by me... I think it's possibly one of those marketing gimmicks. It does have a similar feeling to Gres Cabaret. 

Rose Noir by BYREDO 

Musky and dusty rose, starts with a burst of astringent grapefruit which disappears quickly. Becomes very dry and moody, almost vintage feeling. I don't find anything particulary "noir" about it however, it's lacking the heavy spices I associate with "noir" scents. 

Red Aoud by MONTALE

This smells so good I want to drink it! Makes my mouth water. Lots of agarwood, lots of saffron and other delicious spices. Like a campfire made up of dried roses and exotic woods. Mmmm this is sexy! The staying power is incredible, 12 + hours on my skin and probably would go longer but I showered. 

White Aoud by MONTALE  

One of the intense Sharpie marker/ gasoline smelling ouds to my nose. That medicine and Band Aid smell that I associate with oud perfumes. The rose definitely plays backup singer to the oud, rather than taking the lead. Reminds me somewhat of Midnight Oud by Juliette Has a Gun. This is only for the brave, the shy should not apply. Sillage on this carries two rooms over, in typical Montale fashion. 

Rose Oud by NICOLAI PARFUMEUR

This is such a weird scent, I'm still not sure what to make of it. I don't hate it but I'm not sure that I want my actual body to smell this way. I barely detect the agarwood but smell the animalic "beaver butt" note quite clearly. Something about it reminds me of stick deodorant... maybe the type of amber accord used? However, your mileage may vary. The raspberry and osmanthus notes sweeten it up in a manner that also recalls a plastic toy from my childhood. 

Rose Pivoine by NICOLAI PARFUMEUR  

Super sweet, almost like candy or juice. I honestly wouldn't know this was a rose scent if I hadn't been told. I smell mostly berries but never the less, it is well blended and complex. Smells expensive, just like everything from this house. I think this would be a nice alternative to the sickly sweet department store berry scents that are so popular right now.


Isabel by TOCCA  

What a delectable juicy, fruity rose! I love it. The sangria accord is noticeable but it's not boozy, just fruity. Because it's a Tocca, it's not heavy or cloying, but sheer like watercolor paints. Also, Tocca make the most beautiful bottles of heavy glass with a filigreed brass cap. One of my favorite Toccas that I have tried, along with Liliana and Colette. I wish this came in a scented candle so my whole house could smell of it.


Vaara by PENHALIGONS 

A sweet fresh watery rose for people who think they don't like rose. Notes of yuzu, peony, magnolia and freesia lift it up and make it youthful, slightly soapy but definitely a summery feel. Something vegetal in there brings to mind a summer garden in full glory. I can almost see the bees hovering between the blossoms. It does remind me of a gentler, smoother version of Lancome Miracle. 


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