Incensed

Lately I've developed a huge fondness for incense. It started with the typical sticks you find sold in metaphysical stores and headshops, then progressed to pricey cones purchased from niche perfume houses. I found the most delight however, in buying loose resins, barks and powders in bulk to burn on a small charcoal disk. Had to learn moderation with that... the tiniest bit of resin can fill an entire room with smoke. My favorites to burn are myrrh, sandalwood, and palo santo. I also enjoy having benzoin, frankincense and dragons blood bark on hand. It's fun to create new combinations and take in the sweet ancient fragrances. Burning real incense has given me a deeper appreciation for incense inspired perfumes and so today I'll tell you about some of the best ones I've tried. 

COMME DES GARCONS Series 3: INCENSE

CdG came out with five incense inspired scents for this series, influenced by the places of worship ascribed to some of the major world religions. 

Jaisalmer (inspired by Hinduism) was the woodiest one to me. It reminds me of standing on a cut pine log porch in the summertime after the rain has come, and the soaked wood smells so earthy and medicinal.

Kyoto (inspired by Buddhism) is the most ethereal, the hardest to pin down but possibly my favorite? Not sure yet but it's very beautiful, light and herbal. Doesn't smell like a perfume at all really, it's so natural.

Ouarzazate (inspired by Islam) was the most floral to me. The sage note is really fresh and realistic and there is a nice hit of jasmine, green tea and wood notes.

Zagorsk (inspired by Orthodox Christianity) was the coziest, most powdered, almost clean soap like to me. There is a lot of orris root in here. Reminds me of the interior of an old quality handbag.

Avignon (inspired by Catholicism) was the most "churchy" to me. I suppose that makes sense for me personally, since I grew up in Christian circles. It's got that nice blend of sweet myrrh and bracing clean frankincense. Notes like labdanum and ambrette add to the "ancient building filled with tapestries and old wood" feeling.

BOWHANTI by THE BODY SHOP

Woody notes with a hefty dose of cinnamon incense. I did not particularly care for this on the first spray as it goes on slightly medicinal but it grew on me over time. It's very balsamic and earthy, slightly peppered, totally unisex in my opinion. One of the most calm incense fragrances I've ever worn. The notes listing seems like it would have powerful sillage, but I found it to be a close to the skin scent no matter how much I over sprayed.

FAT ELECTRICIAN by ETAT LIBRE D'ORANGE

Vetiver and myrrh are favorite notes for me, and having them beautifully balanced with sweet notes here make Fat Electrician one of my favorite perfumes and one that will definitely be added to my collection. It doesn't smell foody despite the sweet candied nut accord. It does smell warm. The bitterness of the vetiver gives it a more yang leaning. If I smelled anyone wearing this I would climb them like a tree.

OPIUM by YVES SAINT LAURENT

The smell of Christ's tomb. The dust on the stones in the desert heat. The balms and spices used to wrap a body. Spikenard still in the air. Antiquity and mystery. I love the smell of Opium but I can't imagine being enveloped in this as a daily scent. It has a lot of gravitas to me.

FURIOSA by FENDI 

I blind bought this due to the cool bottle. It looks like a tortoise shell. The scent itself is really unique, and as you can see from the other reviews, difficult to describe accurately. It's hot peppery, incense smoky, sweet amber, heavy floral, whispers of powder... it's all of these things drifting in and out in layers, like ballet dancers who leap off into the wings only to reappear onstage a few minutes later. This is very distinctive, in Fendi style.